As I started to write this headline, a tear fell from my mouth. West of Mexico City, in the city of Morelia, there is an area in El Centro, the historic district, near the cathedral, where gazpacho (yes, spelled with an s) lines the streets. Young men worked under each gazpacho sign, carefully and quickly slicing not tomatoes and red peppers to make Spain’s famous chilled gazpacho soup, but mango, jicama, and pineapple into tiny, perfect cubes to make gazpacho, a sweet and salty fruit appetizer.

By midday, the streets are filled with people carrying large plastic cups filled with tiny sliced ​​fruit and topped with Cotiha chili and queso.